
Five pounds of fresh pork belly
Remember the sitcom episodes when the trouble-making, bad ass cousin would come to visit? All the formulaic sitcoms from my childhood in the eighties had one. Well, pancetta is bacon’s Italian cousin. Pancetta does have the salt and pork of bacon but instead of being smoked it is air dried and therefore acquires the slightly funky taste unique to fermented sausage. Yes, I see that the analogy is turned inside out because one of the usual foibles of the out-of-town cousin was that he DID smoke but luckily this is a blog about food not Full House.
As Marcella Hazan notes in the Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, “pancetta, from pancia, the Italian for belly, is the distinctive Italian version of bacon.” Hazan goes on to note the differences between pancetta arrotolata which is dried rolled in a log shape and pancetta stesa which is hung in a flat slab to dry. I have cured (cinnamon version) and smoked my own bacon before but now it’s time to try pancetta. I haven’t decided whether I’ll roll mine or leave it flat.
Pork belly is becoming a much easier ingredient to find but when it shows up in supermarket butcher cases it is usually pre-sliced at the thickness of thick-cut bacon or in roughly pound-size chunks appropriate for roasting or braising. If you want to roll your pancetta (as I think I might) you need a larger piece of belly in the four to six pound range. At the No Frills where I often find esoteric pork parts Friday seems to be cutting day so the best to ask for a large chunk of belly. (more…)







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