Do one thing right and stick to it. That’s a maxim I thought restaurants, especially casual places with small kitchens, should observe religiously.
Somehow Johnny Prassoulis and his team at Holy Chuck Burgers have managed to fight this law and win. Their straight-up double cheeseburger is good enough that it just barely edged Burger’s Priest in our blind tasting. Instead of being satisfied with that offering he’s also experimenting with menu options that tend more towards the luxurious.
Near the end of last year I had the opportunity to try the Cheeky Cow burger. It wouldn’t win any burger beauty contests but who wants a pretty burger? A double cheeseburger has been kicked in the umami pants with the addition of veal cheeks braised in a deeply-flavoured gravy.
But really, I know, the main draw for you guys will be the foie gras burger they call the Holy Duck. To one of their standard, soft buns and single freshly-ground beef patties they’ve added bacon, truffle oil, a hefty chunk (more than two ounces, I’m told) of foie gras from Ontario’s La Ferme. The slight smoke and chew from the bacon, that feral-metal edge from the truffles and the supreme richness of the foie make this one of the most delicious things I’ve eaten from a paper-lined tray.
I recommend you build a little pile of sacrificial fries to catch the foie gras juices. They’ll go from good to blessedly delicious.
The price for this bad boy is a penny short of twenty-five bucks. That’s a lot for a burger. Some will howl in protest but if you know of another burger, with this much foie, in Toronto for less than $30 please let me know in the comments.
When the two burgers are on the menu together they’ll offer a foie gras poutine that will be a sort of symbiosis of the two. The braising liquid from the veal cheeks will serve as the gravy for the fries topped with the fattened liver.
The Holy Duck burgers are available now, the Cheeky Cow is on whenever he can get veal cheeks, and Johnny hopes to have the full, new menu up and going by the end of January.